Beyond the Crowds: Discovering Kanda Jakh’s Untouched Mussoorie Beauty
It was winter in Mussoorie, and as the three of us—Vikas Patel, Digvijay Tomar, and I—woke up early in the cold, I could already feel the excitement of the day ahead. Mussoorie had its winter charm, and we were eager to explore. After a quick chat over breakfast, we decided to start the day by visiting the Secret Waterfall, a place I had discovered a while back and been itching to revisit.
The Secret Waterfall: An Icy Bath to Start the Day
By 8:00 AM, we found ourselves at Lakemist Hotel, which was closed, but it’s where the trail to the waterfall begins. The air was crisp, and I could feel the chill in my bones, but that wasn’t going to stop me from chasing the waterfall. We followed the small stream near the entrance, walking along for about 3-4 minutes before crossing it to reach the other side of the lake. As we followed the trail, the distant roar of rushing water grew louder until we arrived at the waterfall.
Now, I love cold water dips—it’s my thing. But as soon as my friends dipped their feet in the freezing water, they shot me looks that said, “You’re crazy if you think we’re going in there.” They had a point. It was so cold that just putting your legs in sent painful shivers up your body. But for me? That icy water was calling my name. I needed this.
Ignoring their protests, I took two quick dips in the pool near the waterfall. My body immediately turned red, the cold water rushing over me like needles. My friends watched from a safe distance, snapping pictures of me in disbelief. Vikas chuckled, shaking his head, “How are you even doing this?” But for me, it was refreshing—almost like a reset.
After my dip, we warmed up at a small Maggi point nearby, sipping hot tea while the icy breeze reminded me of the chill I had just braved. The trail leading up to Dalai Hill was tempting, but since I’d done it before, we decided to skip it and head back to the hotel.
A Change of Plans at George Everest
Back at the hotel, Patel suggested we visit George Everest, a popular spot with a scenic view, so we packed up and hit the road around 10:00 AM. The drive took about an hour, winding through narrow mountain roads. As we neared the entrance, we parked the car on the roadside, taking in the view of the base of George Everest—a beautiful meadow surrounded by towering hills.
We reached the ticket counter, excited for the hike, but our excitement quickly faded when we were told that the ticket price was INR 200 per adult, plus parking fees. We were shocked. George Everest had been sold to a private company, and apparently, there were now hotels and cafés at the top. It was all too commercialized. The trail had even been turned into a concrete path.
Disappointed, we canceled our plan to visit George Everest. It saddened me to see nature being overtaken by business. How could something so beautiful become a playground for hotels and expensive cafés? It reminded me of how other countries, like Scotland, preserve their natural beauty, while here, we seemed to be losing it.
Frustrated, we sat down at a local café to discuss our next move. We tossed around ideas like Benog Hill and Bhadraj Temple, but Patel quickly shot them down, saying they’d probably be just like George Everest. So, we decided to head to Dhanaulti, about 30 km away. The drive would take 1-2 hours, depending on traffic.
A Serendipitous Detour to Kanda Jakh
The road to Dhanaulti took us through Mall Road, bustling with locals and tourists enjoying the shops and cafés. After a few miles on the Dehradun road, we turned left onto the road toward Dhanaulti. The road was narrow and a bit risky, especially for first-time mountain drivers. As we drove, we saw a banner for a place called Kanda Jakh, a spot we had never heard of.
Curious, we stopped at another Maggi point and asked the shopkeeper about it. He told us Kanda Jakh was a beautiful place, often visited by foreigners, and that we could camp there. He mentioned we’d need to drive to Kimoi village first, then hike for 3 km to reach the meadow. Intrigued, we changed plans again and decided to check it out.
We reached Kimoi village after navigating some under-construction roads, parked the car at the entrance, and began packing our tent, blankets, and food. As we walked through the village, I couldn’t help but admire the old wooden houses, some abandoned but still full of history. The sloping roofs and intricate wooden carvings reminded me of my childhood village, bringing a wave of nostalgia.
The Hike to Kanda Jakh
The hike to Kanda Jakh was peaceful, with just the sounds of nature and the occasional villager passing by, carrying firewood. Every now and then, we’d stop to ask if we were still on the right path, and the locals were always kind enough to point us in the right direction. For Digvijay, this was his first real hike, and though he was a bit slow, we made frequent stops to enjoy the view.
At one point, we met two women carrying heavy loads of forage on their backs. I greeted them with a “Namaste” and asked how much farther we had to go. They smiled and assured us we were close.
By 5:30 PM, we finally reached Kanda Jakh. It was more beautiful than we had imagined—rolling meadows with stunning views of the Himalayas, and the sun setting behind the peaks, casting a warm golden glow over the landscape. There was a small school and an old Pahadi-style temple, giving the place a peaceful, timeless vibe.
Camping Under the Stars at Kanda Jakh
As the daylight faded, we quickly looked for a camping spot. There were solar lights near the school and access to drinking water, which made setting up camp easier. While I worked on pitching the tent, Patel and Tomar went to gather firewood.
A muleteer passed by with his mules, and we stopped him to ask if there were any shops nearby. He mentioned that the nearest village was just 1 km downhill, where we could find basic supplies. He even offered to bring us tea and Maggi in the morning, which we gladly accepted.
That night, we lit a bonfire and sat around it, laughing about how we had planned to visit Dhanaulti but ended up camping in this hidden gem. The fire crackled as we shared stories and appreciated the beauty of the quiet meadow. We had packed food for dinner, and after eating, we retired to our tent, exhausted but happy.
A Beautiful Sunrise and a Morning Farewell
Tomar woke us up at 7:00 AM to catch the sunrise, and I’m glad he did. The sun rising over the Himalayan peaks was nothing short of magical. It painted the sky in hues of orange and pink, and the cold morning air felt refreshing after the warmth of the tent.
At around 9:00 AM, the muleteer returned with tea and bread (unfortunately, no Maggi this time) and even brought along his playful dog. We enjoyed our simple breakfast and tried to give him some money as a token of thanks. At first, he refused, but after a bit of insisting, he accepted.
We packed up our tent, gathered our belongings, and prepared to head back down the trail. As we left Kanda Jakh, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the unexpected detour. Sometimes, the best adventures are the ones you don’t plan.
Key Takeaways and Highlights:
Secret Waterfall: A hidden gem near Mussoorie that’s perfect for a morning hike and, if you’re brave enough, an icy dip in the waterfall. There’s also a small Maggi point for tea and snacks.
George Everest: Sadly, no longer the peaceful spot it once was. The commercialization has turned it into a tourist trap with overpriced tickets and hotels. We do not recommend it anymore.
Kanda Jakh: A beautiful, offbeat spot near Dhanaulti, accessible after a 3 km hike from Kimoi village. It offers serene meadows, stunning Himalayan views, and an old Pahadi temple. It’s a perfect spot for camping, with drinking water and solar lights available near the school.
Camping Experience: Our night at Kanda Jakh was filled with bonfire stories, a peaceful night under the stars, and a beautiful sunrise the next morning. The locals are incredibly helpful and kind, offering tea and guidance if you need it. Download the App GoWild to locate the camping location. Click the link now: https://link-to.app/AB7Cpogw3p
This unexpected adventure to Kanda Jakh showed us that sometimes, ditching the popular spots leads you to something far more beautiful and meaningful. If you’re looking for a peaceful, off-the-beaten-path experience in Mussoorie, this is the place to be.
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