Discovering the Hidden Beauty of Kulgam: From Aharbal to Kungwattan
On my way to Pahalgam, I made a quick stop in Qazigund to grab something to eat. There, I met a guy named Irshad. As we chatted, I told him about my plan to explore Pahalgam. He suggested I also visit Kulgam, and when I asked what was special about it, he told me about a beautiful waterfall called Aharbal. Curious, I asked him about camping spots, and he kindly navigated me through the map. After finishing my trip in Pahalgam, I decided to take Irshad’s advice and head to Kulgam.
Once I reached Anantnag, I took the road leading to Aharbal Waterfall. As I rode toward Aharbal, I occasionally stopped to ask the locals for directions. Each time, they not only pointed me in the right direction but also offered me tea at their homes. This is one of the things I find so fascinating about Kashmiri people—their hospitality is beyond words, incredibly gentle and kind.
When I finally arrived at Aharbal, I parked my bike in the designated area and bought an entrance ticket for INR 20. The first thing I noticed was a beautiful garden with stalls around it and a small café. As I walked toward the waterfall, the sound of rushing water grew louder in my ears. I followed the iron stairs down to the waterfall, noticing people filling their water bottles from small streams trickling down the rocks.
The moment I caught my first glimpse of Aharbal, I was stunned. I had never seen water so beautiful—it looked like a milky fall, crystal clear with shades of sky blue and white. It’s often called the "Niagara Falls of India," but personally, I don’t like comparing our places to those in other countries. Aharbal is uniquely beautiful in its own right way. I sat there for a few minutes, soaking in the view and snapping a few photos, feeling grateful to Irshad Bhai for recommending this spot. Some locals told me about the waterfall. After the flood, it has become a bit deeper; otherwise, the waterfall's spray used to reach all the way up. The flood last year caused a lot of damage.
Afterward, I headed back to the garden, where I met Arshid, a local guide who also runs a few hotels. He’s quite an experienced hiker and suggested I visit Kungwattan, a place where I could also camp. I packed some biryani and snacks before setting off. To reach Kungwattan, I first had to ride my bike for about 1 km, park it, and then hike 7 km to get there. Arshid suggested I could camp there, and without much hesitation, I decided to go for it.
Kungwattan Meadows
I parked my motorbike near the J&K government tourist guest house, where they charge around INR 50 per day for parking. The staff there asked me where I was heading, and when I told them about my plans, they noticed I was carrying a lot—one camping bag full of gear and another bag with clothes, books, and my laptop. They kindly offered me the option to set up my tent near the guest house for a minimum charge of INR 300. But my mind was already set on Kungwattan.
With my tent bag on my back and the other bag on my chest, I started the hike. The trail began wide but soon turned muddy, thanks to the horses that tourists often use to reach Kungwattan. The hike was easy in some parts and moderately challenging in others. As I walked, I met a couple heading toward their village. I asked them about staying in Kungwattan, and they told me that some shepherds (Gujjars) live there who could help me if needed.
The couple and I parted ways after Sangam Meadows, where I crossed the first wooden bridge. They pointed me toward the path to Kungwattan, which included crossing a broken iron bridge followed by another wooden bridge down below. Crossing the second bridge was tough with all the weight I was carrying. A stream flowed over stones from the mountain, making the crossing even trickier. After I crossed, I met two kids who helped me carry one of my bags. We chatted about cricket, their favorite players, and their education—they had both passed their matric exams last year. I loved listening to them speak in Urdu; their language had a beautiful rhythm and politeness to it. Urdu is truly a wonderful language, especially for poets and shayars.
After a 1 km ascent, we finally entered Kungwattan Meadows—a vast grassland surrounded by alpine trees. The kids and I said our goodbyes, and they continued on their way. Kungwattan is a base camp for hikers heading to Kausarnag Lake, which is 20 km away. From here, you can also hike to Chiranbal Meadows. Horses were grazing in the meadows, and I greeted the locals who owned them. I was on the lookout for a good camping spot and found a small shop run by a shepherd’s family. I bought some biscuits and sweeteners to boost my energy.
Some other campers had already set up their tents, but I was too tired to join them. I found a spot in the middle of the open meadow and set up my camp. I collected some wood for a bonfire and tried to light it with my lighter, but it was too windy. In the distance, I noticed some nomads (shepherds or Bhakarwals) who had set up their camp under the alpine trees. I went over and asked for their help with the fire. They were in the middle of having dinner but assured me they’d come to help after they finished. They also offered me food, but I thanked them and declined since I had my own. The shepherd told me to set up a camp nearby them. Sometimes wild animals come, and there is a chance of an attack. They have dogs with them to protect their herds and horses. All night, they stayed close to me.
A little while later, they arrived with more wood and helped me get the fire going. We spent a few hours chatting, and they asked about where I was from and how I ended up in Kungwattan. They told me about their nomadic lifestyle—they live in Reasi in the Jammu region but spend 4-5 months traveling with their livestock, moving from place to place. They also recommended some places to visit after Kungwattan, like Raineera Meadows and Peer Ki Gali, even showing me photos of these breathtaking spots. After a while, we said goodnight, and I crawled into my tent.
The next morning, I woke up to a beautiful sunrise that made the dew on the meadows sparkle like glaciers. I took a walk around the meadows, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. I visited the nomads, who had already packed up their things and secured them on the backs of their horses. I gave the kids some apples as a thank you for helping me the night before and said my goodbyes. Then I returned to my campsite, packed up my gear, and prepared for the 7 km hike back to Aharbal Waterfall.
Key Tips and Highlights:
Where to Stay:
Arshad guest house in Kulgam: A budget-friendly stay at INR 1200-2000 per night with a welcoming host. Perfect if you’re looking for a cheap yet comfortable place. You can contact Arshad +917006884906. He is also a guide and has immense knowledge of Kulgam.
Camping Spots:
Kungwattan Meadows: A perfect spot for self-camping in a large, open meadow. It’s quiet, surrounded by nature, and offers beautiful views. If you’re looking for the exact location and other hidden camping spots, download the GoWild app.
Chiranbal Meadows: A perfect spot of camping. It is large and open meadows offers stunning views.
Places to Explore in Kulgam:
Kausarnag Lake: A challenging 20 km hike from Kungwattan, known for its breathtaking views.
Chiranbal Meadows: Another beautiful meadow accessible from Kungwattan, ideal for those looking to explore beyond the usual tourist spots.
Aharbal Waterfall: A stunning waterfall often referred to as the "Niagara Falls of India," though it’s beautiful enough to stand on its own without comparison. The entry fee is INR 20 per adult.
Kungwattan Meadows: A 7 km hike from the parking area, this serene meadow is surrounded by alpine trees and serves as a base camp for hikes to Kausarnag Lake and Chiranbal Meadows. The trail can be muddy, especially after rain, and is frequently used by horses.
Raineera Meadows and Peer Ki Gali: Recommended by the nomads I met, these places are known for their unreal, stunning beauty and are worth visiting if you have the time.
App Gowild helps you in navigating the places and stay. Download now by clicking the link:
Mobile network availability : You won't get mobile network at Kungwattan and chiranbal meadows.
Mobile network accessibility at Aharbal Waterfall and Panchan Pathri.
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