Exploring Chandanwari: A gateway to Amarnath Yatra
After finishing my hike to Lidderwat, I returned to the peaceful Aru Valley, feeling tired but excited to explore more. I opened the 'GoWild' app to check out what to do next in Pahalgam. After thinking it over, I decided to visit Chandanwari and stop by Betaab Valley on the way. By the way, Betaab Valley got its name from the Bollywood movie "Betaab," which was filmed here.
I packed up my stuff on the bike and headed toward Chandanwari. But before I got too far, I realized I needed to charge my phone and laptop. Since I didn’t have a power bank, I decided to stop by a café in Pahalgam, grab something to eat, and charge my devices. The food here isn’t too expensive, so I had a good meal and got my phone and laptop powered up.
As I continued toward Chandanwari, I met a local guy named Adil Naik who was looking for a lift. I offered him a ride, and we started chatting. Adil told me his village was on the way and invited me to his home for some tea. I couldn’t say no to that, so I followed him to his place. His family was really welcoming, and we had a nice time over tea. I asked Adil about cool places to visit nearby, and he offered to show me around. He even mentioned a camping spot near his village, which sounded great to me.
We continued our journey together, with Adil acting as my guide. On the way, we passed Betaab Valley, which looked amazing. Adil showed me some photos of places he had visited before, which got me interested in hiking to Sheshnag Lake. It’s about 12 km from Chandanwari and is also the starting point for the Amarnath Yatra, a famous pilgrimage. The trail passes through spots like Pissu Top and Sheshnag Lake, which Adil said has beautiful crystal-clear blue water.
Adil also mentioned a shorter hike to Astanmarg, which is 6 km from Chandanwari. But as we got closer to the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra, we were stopped by a security guard. The Yatra was starting soon, and for safety reasons, they weren’t letting anyone go further. I was disappointed, but I understood. So, we decided to head back and explore Betaab Valley instead.
Betaab Valley was full of tourists and school kids, but it was still incredibly beautiful. From the road, the people below looked like tiny dots moving around the valley. There’s usually an entry fee of INR 30 per person, but Adil knew someone who got us in for free. We walked around, crossing little bridges over streams and passing by lovely gardens and cafés where you could sit and enjoy the scenery.
We found a spot in one of the gardens to relax. I told Adil about my journey so far and my plans for the 'GoWild' app. I suggested he sign up as a guide on the app, which he seemed interested in. Adil is already a guide and a student, so this could be a good opportunity for him. We also talked about the situation in Kashmir, especially how it’s shown in the news. Adil assured me that things are not as bad as they are sometimes portrayed, and I agreed, saying that everyone I met had been kind and friendly.
As the day came to an end, we headed to Adil’s village for some camping. The campsite, called Chhan Haji, is across a wooden bridge named ‘Laila Majnu’ over the Lidder River. The spot was beautiful, with another clear stream joining the river from the mountains. Adil first showed me a meadow surrounded by tall trees, which felt untouched and peaceful. Then we went to the riverside camping site, where I set up my tent. Adil said he’d come back later with some food.
While waiting, I finished a quick meeting with my developers (thank goodness for mobile internet). Adil returned around 8:30 PM with his own tent and cooking supplies. He cooked up a simple but tasty meal—some curry and vegetables. We ate under the stars, then wished each other goodnight and went to sleep in our tents.
BaiSaran
After exploring Chandanwari, I decided to spend an extra day in Pahalgam. I had some clothes that needed washing, and after saying goodbye and “Shukriya” to Adil, I figured I’d better find a place to stay for the night. It was early in the morning, around 7:30 AM, so I opened the 'GoWild' app to plan my next adventure near Pahalgam. After a bit of browsing, I decided to visit Baisaran, also known as "Mini Switzerland." Personally, I’m not a fan of comparing our beautiful Indian landscapes to other countries. Pahalgam is one of the most stunning places in India—it doesn’t need to be likened to anywhere else!
There are two ways to reach Baisaran: one trail starts right from the taxi stand in Pahalgam, and the other involves driving a few kilometers to the gate, which is the starting point for Baisaran. The first trail merges with the second a few kilometers in, and the hike is about 5 km in total. A light breeze was picking up as I started my hike, and the rain had turned the trail muddy. To make matters worse, many people ride horses up to Baisaran, which really messes up the trail.
Along the way, a guide offered to take me on a trek to Tulian Lake for INR 5000. Tulian Lake is an 11 km trek from there and sounds amazing, but I decided to save it for another trip—I always like to leave some places unexplored, giving myself a reason to come back.
I left my bag on my bike without any worry. It’s Kashmir, after all—people here are trustworthy. As I continued on the trail, I noticed small stones scattered along the path. A little further ahead, I met a kid who was hoping to get some chocolate from tourists. I didn’t have any, so I promised him that if I found some up ahead, I’d bring it back for him.
The trail started getting tougher as I went through the forest, and the path was really beaten up by the horses. I decided to follow a small stream coming down from the mountain, which was a nice break from the smell of horse dung that was pretty much everywhere. Eventually, I reached the main gate where the entry ticket was INR 35 per adult. After grabbing my ticket, I walked into a crowded scene—people were everywhere, enjoying snacks, trying fun activities like ziplining, dressing up in local outfits for photos, and, of course, making reels for social media.
Baisaran is a huge meadow surrounded by alpine forests, with snow-capped mountains adding to its beauty. I decided to find a quiet spot away from the crowd, where I could just lie down and relax for a bit. As I watched people enjoying their zipline rides, recording their adventures with their phones, I couldn’t help but admire how beautiful and serene the place was. But the crowd was starting to get to me, so I decided it was time to head back to Pahalgam.
As I began my descent, it started raining heavily again, and this time it lasted longer. The trail became really slippery, and my shoes weren’t the best for these conditions. I tried to step only on the stones that were scattered along the path to avoid the muddy parts. Horses were coming down the trail as well, making it even more difficult to navigate. I noticed a group of schoolgirls descending quickly, not even worried about slipping—they were just enjoying the moment. Meanwhile, I was moving slowly, carefully placing each footstep to avoid falling.
By the time I reached the gate where I had parked my bike, it was around 1:30 PM, and I was feeling pretty hungry. I headed to the main center of Pahalgam to grab some food. But first, I needed to find a room for the night. My budget was tight, around INR 800, so I started looking for a cheap place to stay. I came across Aftab Guest House, where the owner initially asked for INR 1000. I explained my budget to him, and after some discussion, he agreed to lower the price to INR 800. He mentioned that there had been a shortage of tourists this season, so he was happy to accommodate me. Aftab Bhai turned out to be a really kind person, and he was great to me during my stay.
After checking in, I headed out to the market for lunch. When I got back to the guest house, I washed my clothes and took a break. No camping for me this time—just a comfortable bed for the night. There is a camping spot near Dua Park on the way to Aru Valley if you’re interested, but after the rainy, muddy hike, I was ready for some warmth and comfort.
Key points:
Where to Stay: If you’re looking for a budget stay in Pahalgam, Aftab Guest House is a good option. The owner is friendly and accommodating, especially if you’re traveling on a budget.
Places to Explore: Baisaran (5Km Hike) and Tulian lake (11 Km Hike).
Chandanwari: The starting point for the Amarnath Yatra, known for its glaciers and the route to Sheshnag Lake, Pissu Top, and Armpathri.
Betaab Valley: A beautiful valley with small bridges, gardens, and places to relax.
Sheshnag Lake: Even though I couldn’t visit this time, it’s on my list for the future. The clear blue water sounds amazing.
For Campers: If you’re interested in camping near Pahalgam, there’s a spot near Dua Park on the road to Aru Valley.
Where to Camp in Chandanwari: Camping by the Lidder River near Chhan Haji is a must. It’s a peaceful spot with beautiful surroundings, and the locals are very welcoming.
Explore More with GoWild: To discover hidden spots, camping sites, and more around Pahalgam, download the GoWild app. It’s your go-to guide for exploring this beautiful region
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