Unlock the Secrets of Kargil to Zanskar: A Traveler's Guide to the Unknown
After Kargil, I was advised by Ali Bhai, whom I met in Sonamarg, to explore Zanskar Valley. Excited by his recommendation, I filled up my bike with petrol in Kargil and headed towards Zanskar. Ali Bhai also suggested a few places to visit along the way, and one of them was Suru Valley.
On the road to Zanskar, I met a school kid who told me about Tambian Waterfall. He said it’s a beautiful spot, but since I was already running late and unsure of when I’d reach Zanskar, I had to skip it. But I dropped the kid at his home and just took a look on Tambian Waterfall. The road was under construction, with dust flying everywhere, making the ride a bit rough. But despite the conditions, I pushed forward.
Exploring Suru Valley: Karchay Khar Buddha Statue
After some time, I reached Suru Valley and opened the GoWild app to look for places to explore nearby. One of the recommended spots was the Karchay Khar Buddha statue, a stone-carved standing Buddha located just 3 km from Sankoo. I stopped in Sankoo and asked a boy for directions. He was waiting for a public vehicle, so I invited him to join me on my bike. He agreed, and as we rode, we chatted about the area and camping spots. He told me that Damsna village is a great riverside camping spot.
When we reached the Buddha statue, I was awestruck by the beauty of the place. Surrounded by greenery, the ancient stone-carved Buddha stood tall, and a small stream flowed through the area, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. I spent some time there, clicking photos and taking in the serene surroundings. The boy even taught me a few Urdu words before we headed back to Sankoo.
Damsna and Panikhar: Riversides, Campers, and Conversations
I continued my journey towards Zanskar, passing by Damsna, where I saw a perfect camping spot by the river. Campers had set up their tents, and motorbikers were gathered around. A group of campers invited me for tea, and we had a friendly chat about traveling and camping. They were camping with their families, and the atmosphere was so serene, with the river flowing nearby and the green surroundings. I thought about camping there, but I still had a long way to go and decided to keep moving.
Further along the road, I stopped in Panikhar village for a quick tea break. The villagers were very warm and welcoming, greeting me with “Assalam Waleikum” at the local shop. They told me I could camp anywhere in the village, but I was still looking for a unique spot. After thanking them for their hospitality, I moved ahead.
Staying in Tongul Village: A Quiet Night at the Government Tourist Stay
As the day turned into evening, I was stopped by a car driver who offered me a homestay for INR 1000, including food. I was tempted but decided to press on. I reached Tongul village, where I found a Ladakh government tourist stay. The caretaker, Bashir Ahmed, was a kind man who offered me a clean room for INR 500. After parking my bike and settling in, Bashir Bhai offered me some tea. He told me that the area is a base camp for expeditions to the Nun Kun Peak, a popular trekking route. However, the season wasn’t right for trekking at the moment.
I spent the evening having a simple dinner of rice and dal with Bashir Bhai, who had gone to his village to fetch fresh milk for the tea. He left me in charge of the stay, telling me to assist any tourists that might arrive, showing them the room and quoting the price. It was a quiet night, perfect for relaxing and working on my GoWild app.
The Road to Rangdum and Camping with Locals
The next morning, I checked my motorbike’s fuel and realized I needed to refuel. Bashir Bhai told me the nearest fuel station was 10 km back in Panikhar, so I rode back, filled up my tank, and gave a lift to two school kids along the way. One of them invited me to her house for tea and food, but I had to decline as I was already running late for Zanskar.
After returning to Tongul, I packed my bags and said goodbye to Bashir Bhai, thanking him for his hospitality. He gave me directions, saying that the rough road would end after another 10 km, which gave me hope for a smoother ride ahead.
As I rode on, I passed beautiful meadows surrounded by glacial mountain peaks, which made the journey even more magical. I stopped at water stream crossing on road and I filled my water bottle with this melting glacier water which I do not know how healthy it is. After few hours riding, I stopped at Rangdum village, where I had rajma rice and tea at a café. Nearby, there was another riverside camping area where caravans and motorbikes were parked. I decided to join the local campers, who were mostly Ladakhi people. They greeted me warmly, helped me set up my tent, and we spent the evening playing cricket and volleyball.
Later, we cooked dinner together—chicken and rice. As we ate, we talked about travel, work, and life in Ladakh. After a fulfilling day, we all retreated to our tents for the night. The next morning, I woke up to the most beautiful sunrise I had ever seen, with the sun rising over the glacier-covered mountains. By 9:30 AM, everyone started packing up, and I did the same, securing my bags on the motorbike before continuing my journey toward Zanskar Valley.
Pensi La Lake and Drang Drung Glacier: Natural Wonders
The road ahead was full of stunning views. I passed the majestic Pensi La Lake and the impressive Drang Drung Glacier. The glacier’s sheer size and beauty were overwhelming, and I stopped to take it all in. A friend had suggested swimming in Pensi La Lake, but there was an army convoy nearby, so I decided to avoid it. Instead, I sat by the lakeside for a few moments before continuing on. As I am riding, I am enjoying every moments of surrounding with snow capped peaks. I want to thank Ali Bhai to suggesting me this motorbike ride trip to Kargil to Zanskar Valley.
Padum: The Heart of Zanskar Valley
Finally, after a long ride, I reached Padum, the capital of Zanskar Valley. As I entered, the first thing I saw was the serene Sani Lake, with a Buddha statue in the middle. The calmness of the lake was soothing, and I knew I had made the right decision coming here. I didn’t feel like camping after such a long ride, so I searched for the Ladakh government tourist stay in Padum, which I found easily on the main road.
The caretaker wasn’t there when I arrived, so I went to a nearby café for a meal. I opened my GoWild app and looked for more places to explore in Zanskar. The café owner kindly wrote down some recommendations, and most of them were already on the GoWild app. After eating, I returned to the tourist stay, where the caretaker entered my details in the register and charged me INR 500 for the room. The place was clean, spacious, and perfect for a peaceful stay.
Visiting Bardan Monastery and Karsha Monastery
In the evening, I visited Bardan Monastery, which is located about 10 km from Padum on the Darcha road. Built on a rock cliff along the riverbanks, the monastery was easy to find. I spent some time talking with the monks and enjoying tea made from local herbs before returning to Padum for a good night’s rest.
The next morning, I headed to Karsha Monastery, located 8 km from Padum in Karsha village. The monastery sits on a hilltop with Tibetan-style architecture, offering a picturesque view of the village and the valley below. There is a tall standing golden Buddha statue. The view behind is amazing, with snow-capped mountains and the Zanskar River flowing from these mountains, providing a perfect view of Padum town. After reaching Karsha Monastery, I met a few monks, and their warm welcome excited me. I got late for joining the prayer. They told me to join the evening prayers and have dinner with us, and that sounded perfect to me. There After spending some time there, I made my way to my next destination—Sheela Waterfall.
Sheela Waterfall: A Hidden Gem
Sheela Waterfall is about 15 km from Karsha Monastery, named after the charming Sheela village. The village was full of vibrant yellow crops, making it a picturesque sight. When I arrived at the waterfall, I was the only one there, and although there were a couple of cafés nearby, they were closed. The waterfall was stunning, with crystal-clear water flowing into a natural blue pool.
I couldn’t resist taking a dip in the glacial cold water. Although it was freezing, it left me feeling refreshed and energized. After drying off and taking some photos, I headed back to Padum, where I ended my day with a meal of Tingmo with Shapta, a local dish that can be served with either vegetarian or non-vegetarian options.
Key Tips and Highlights:
Where to Stay:
Ladakh Government Tourist Stay in Tongul Village: INR 500 per night. A peaceful, clean stay perfect for trekkers starting their journey to Nun Kun Peak. Mobile number of Bashir Ahmed who is in charge of this stay +91 6006172633.
Ladakh Government Tourist Stay in Padum: INR 500 per bed. Conveniently located on the main road in Padum with spacious parking and clean rooms.
Places to Explore:
Karchay Khar Buddha Statue: A beautiful, stone-carved standing Buddha surrounded by greenery in Suru Valley.
Tambian Waterfall: Although I couldn’t visit, it’s a must-see spot recommended by a local schoolboy.
Damsna Village: A serene riverside camping spot perfect for caravans and motorbikes.
Pensi La Lake and Drang Drung Glacier: Stunning natural wonders en route to Zanskar Valley.
Sani Lake: A peaceful spot in Padum with a Buddha statue at its center.
Bardan Monastery: Built on a rock cliff along the river, a must-visit for its beauty and tranquility.
Karsha Monastery: Offering panoramic views of the valley and Tibetan-style architecture.
Sheela Waterfall: A hidden gem with crystal-clear water and natural pools, perfect for a refreshing dip.
Camping Spots:
Riverside camping in Damsna: An ideal spot for caravans and bikers, offering a serene atmosphere by the river.
Pensi La Lake: A perfect spot for those looking to camp in the middle of nature, surrounded by glacial views.
Network Availability: Mobile networks are available in Suru Valley, Tongul, Rangdum, and Padum.
Download the GoWild App to navigate the camping spot and places. Click on the link: https://link-to.app/AB7Cpogw3p
Zanskar Valley is a hidden gem filled with natural beauty, warm hospitality, and adventurous trails. Whether you’re camping by the riverside, exploring monasteries, or trekking in the mountains, there’s something for every traveler in this remote yet stunning part of Ladakh.
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